Day 3: SHIRA CAMP to MOIR CAMP

Altitude: 3,505m (11,500ft) - 4,200m (13,800ft)

Shira Plateau

It’s a cold night in camp despite Ernest’s make shift hot water bottles and this is the first time I decide that my night time tactics from here on in will be to wear as many layers to bed as possible. I’ve already began to realise I’m going to smell really bad regardless by the time I get back to civilisation! 

Today we have a full day exploration of the Shira plateau. We trek east toward Kibo's glaciated peak and we have spectacular views of the ancient collapsed Shira cone, the oldest of Kilimanjaro's three volcanoes. 

Shira Cathedral

The landscape is still very much heath zone, with rocky ground and low grasses and shrubs. There are still lots of Everlastings and some of the equally distinctive and quite beautiful Giant Lobelias with their concentric rings of leaves. These amazing plants hide tiny flowers underneath their leaves to protect them from Kilimanjaro’s harsh climate. 

Giant Lobelias

The morning is fairly flat but we still take a slow pace, which is the best way to prevent the effects of altitude sickness. Luckily none of us are experiencing any serious effects, other than a sore head but our guides the keep the group spirits up by singing us songs in Swahili.

Flat and easy accross the plateau

Dormant lava flow

We don’t really start climbing seriously until after lunch, but the scenery distracts us as we are now walking through a gorge, which was created by dormant lava flow. It begins to feel like we are on another planet.

Lava flow gorge

Much to our surprise we arrive at Moir camp in the early after noon. Most people on this route stay at Shira 2 campsite on day 3, but Sera prefers to stay here and I can understand why. There is only our group and one other small group camping here for the evening and the feeling of remoteness in this strange landscape makes it feel even more special. 


Our excitement at reaching camp early is short lived however when Sera explains that we still have an acclimatisation climb to do. The idea is that if you climb to a higher altitude then sleep back down at a lower altitude you give your body a much better chance to acclimatise. He also tells us that the terrain is similar to the terrain and incline of the summit night climb and it will give him an idea of how we will all fair on the final big push. He also then tells us this is optional!! 

High spirits

We came here to make it all the way and Sera tell us this is for our own good, so for once in my life I decide to do what I’m told. 

It is a very steep climb on, loose scree slopes and is very similar to a lot of climbing I’ve done in Scotland. We also get chatting to the other guys who are staying in our campsite, Ed and Tom, who are going the opposite way from us in the morning to tackle the summit from the other direction. Their porters are good fun too and we end up singing Swahili songs and have climbed the whole 300m before we even realise. None of us have any adverse effects to the altitude and our decent back to camp is high-spirited……..

Moir Camp (note the toilet tent on the right)

Jambo, Jambo bwana,
Habari gani,
Mzuri sana.

Wageni, Wakaribishwa,
Yetu Hakuna Matata …………We sing all the way back down! 

Moir Hut Camp is a bit more protected than Shira 1 Camp, but it’s still pretty exposed. To the east, we have a drop off where we can look down the lava flow gorge and over the tops of the clouds. 

In this valley we are treated to the most spectacular sunset, reflecting off the clouds and dipping over what feels like the edge of the universe not just our tiny little planet. 

Sunset

To the west we have a much better view of Kibo Summit, by now towering above us, and tinged pink and orange in the fading light.
Its cold again at night, as the light wind at dusk turns to freezing gale by dark. Snuggled in your tent cosy at night it really becomes as struggle to get up and go to the loo when you can hear the raging wind outside. However you waste precious energy and sleep by hanging on so the best thing is just to bite the bullet and make the 30m dash to the safety of our chemical toilet tent. 

Or so I thought …..  I find myself at 3800m clinging for dear life to the upright pole of our toilet tent, while the rest of it blows over in gale force winds and I’m left squatting on the toilet with nothing but a tent pole for privacy ….. This is a definite low point! 



Ah well tomorrow is another day!